Adventures in Europe: Umag, Croatia

I enjoyed breakfast in Piran's Tartini Plaza this morning, and then rented a bike to head south along the coast into Croatia. I left Piran at 10:00 and reached the city of Umag, Croatia just after noon. In all my route was roughly 30 kilometres, and for the middle half or so I was riding a bike trail which follows a former rail right-of-way. The trail is called Parenzana.

It is paved in places, and gravel in others, but overall makes for really nice riding.

Unfortunately, Google does not seem to know it exists, so I took a wrong turn or two, but really this just let me see more of the region! Just north of the Croatia border there is a large area of salt flats. I found this quite interesting!

I took this picture as I rode by when I was level with them. Yes, it is a terrible photo, but I took it because beside the salt, this area is famous for its birds, and especially the egrets, which are (barely) visible in this photo.

There was some interesting information about the salt flats on this sign. If I was staying here another day I definitely would have visited the museum, because I was quite intrigued by it all.

As I climbed the hill on the Croatian side I had an even better view.

Historically, Piran's economy was based on salt, particularly trading with Venice, which is just across the sea from here.

Besides the salt flats, I biked by many olive groves, as well as apple orchards and vineyards. At some point I could see Piran across the bay through the trees.

Once I reached Umag I was pretty hungry and eager for lunch. I ate seafood risotto and shopska salad (one of my favourite Balkan dishes--fresh tomatoes and cucumbers and peppers and LOTS of sirene cheese); this was my view!

Granted I was not even there two hours, but despite in some ways looking like Piran, Umag seemed to lack some of the charm.

It has a long breakwater that you can walk out on.

But the resort complex at the tip of the peninsula is derelict and apparently abandoned. Felt a little tragic to stumble on that in such an idyllic spot.

Anyway, shortly before 14:00 I headed back out, taking a slightly different (i.e., improved with knowledge) route back. After dropping the bike back in Piran, I treated myself to a coffee and pistachio gelato on the square. The whole ride was at least fifty-five, maybe sixty, kilometres, and I was feeling it!

Adventures in Europe: Piran, Slovenia

Although Croatia's Adriatic coast is much more famous, Slovenia has a small slice of coastline as well, and it was here I came yesterday by bus from Ljubljana. I am staying in Piran, which by all accounts is the jewel of the Slovenian coast.

It is a very small and very compact town--cars are not allowed in, for the most part because the alleyways are too narrow to allow them!

I am staying a guesthouse which in many ways puts the "budget" into budget travel, but it does have a rooftop terrace which is a nice feature.

I had to take a coffee on the main square, the Tartini Plaza, to wait to check in for half an hour or so once I arrived.

Once checked in I went off to explore and get some lunch. Sardines by the sea? Don't mind if I do . . .

After lunch I decided to take a dip before doing my laundry, so I changed in my room and flip-flopped back down to the shore. The water was lovely.

Once my laundry was done, I went up to St. George's church, which is on a small hill above the rest of the peninsula. For two euros you can climb the bell tower which gives a nice view, plus, with the bells ringing every 15 minutes, chances are you get to see (and hear!) that too!

But from the tower I also realized that an even better view would be from the old city walls up the hill, further inland. You can see the walls in this picture on the treed hill.

So I climbed up there next. It is two euros to access the walls as well. I suppose the photos would be better in the morning with the sun behind the walls, but actually I do not think it would make much difference in person.

It was now time for an aperitif. I was looking for a Slovenian plum brandy called Šljivovica, but the bar in the square that I chose did not have it. Instead I tried Pelinkovac, which is made from wormwood. It is very pretty and has a nice smell, but is very bitter. It did grow on me, but it probably won't be showing up on my bar at home!

I did enjoy Šljivovica this evening at a different bar, but it is clear and less exciting looking so I did not bother photographing it. It was much more enjoyable though. But, back to yesterday evening, this was my view as I drank the pelinkovac:

Around 19:00 I walked a few steps out of the square to watch the sunset: wow!

Piran is famous for sunsets, and I can see why. That being said, a little bit of cloud really obscured it tonight, so I feel lucky to have seen this last night.

After sunset it was time for more seafood. This time I enjoyed fried squids.

Today I went for a bike ride, which I will blog in a separate post, and really all I did in Piran was drink and eat and walk around in all the same spots as yesterday! I feel very lucky to have spent a couple of days here because it is really a lovely place. But I am also excited to leave tomorrow because I am heading north so that I am in Vienna on Saturday to meet Diana!

Adventures in Europe: Ljubljana, Slovenia

I arrived back in Ljubljana, Slovenia late yesterday evening. Sadly, my train ride from Zagreb was all after dark, so I did not get to enjoy the beautiful landscape again. After checking in at my guesthouse, I went for a nighttime walk. The old town was quiet, but beautiful.

No breakfast at the Lina Rooms . . .

. . . but no worries, that just meant I enjoyed this view at a cafe by the river!

Here are some other photos from along the river in the old town:

After breakfast I walked over to Republic Square. There are two very communist looking buildings here . . .

. . . as well as the Slovenian Parliament building.

From there I climbed up to the castle high above the old town.

I declined to pay admission to gain access to the tower, etc., but did have a great view of the city.

I opted to ride the funicular down from there and back into the old town.