Adventures in Europe: Umag, Croatia

I enjoyed breakfast in Piran's Tartini Plaza this morning, and then rented a bike to head south along the coast into Croatia. I left Piran at 10:00 and reached the city of Umag, Croatia just after noon. In all my route was roughly 30 kilometres, and for the middle half or so I was riding a bike trail which follows a former rail right-of-way. The trail is called Parenzana.

It is paved in places, and gravel in others, but overall makes for really nice riding.

Unfortunately, Google does not seem to know it exists, so I took a wrong turn or two, but really this just let me see more of the region! Just north of the Croatia border there is a large area of salt flats. I found this quite interesting!

I took this picture as I rode by when I was level with them. Yes, it is a terrible photo, but I took it because beside the salt, this area is famous for its birds, and especially the egrets, which are (barely) visible in this photo.

There was some interesting information about the salt flats on this sign. If I was staying here another day I definitely would have visited the museum, because I was quite intrigued by it all.

As I climbed the hill on the Croatian side I had an even better view.

Historically, Piran's economy was based on salt, particularly trading with Venice, which is just across the sea from here.

Besides the salt flats, I biked by many olive groves, as well as apple orchards and vineyards. At some point I could see Piran across the bay through the trees.

Once I reached Umag I was pretty hungry and eager for lunch. I ate seafood risotto and shopska salad (one of my favourite Balkan dishes--fresh tomatoes and cucumbers and peppers and LOTS of sirene cheese); this was my view!

Granted I was not even there two hours, but despite in some ways looking like Piran, Umag seemed to lack some of the charm.

It has a long breakwater that you can walk out on.

But the resort complex at the tip of the peninsula is derelict and apparently abandoned. Felt a little tragic to stumble on that in such an idyllic spot.

Anyway, shortly before 14:00 I headed back out, taking a slightly different (i.e., improved with knowledge) route back. After dropping the bike back in Piran, I treated myself to a coffee and pistachio gelato on the square. The whole ride was at least fifty-five, maybe sixty, kilometres, and I was feeling it!