Adventures in Europe: Einsiedeln, Switzerland

Einsiedeln is a village about an hour or so drive southwest from Zurich, up towards the mountains in the valley of the Alp River. It is famous for its Benedictine abbey. 

I had first heard about it a few months ago, and I decided I wanted to visit it today, on what was somewhat a "bonus" day in Switzerland for me (originally I had intended to leave today, but changed my mind when I arrived on Saturday). The train was going to cost me more than 40 francs roundtrip (which is close to $60 CAD; Switzerland is very expensive!), so I decided to rent my hotel's ebike for 20 CHF for 6 hours and see if I could get there that way. Anyway, the abbey is a pilgrimage destination, and its website laments that most visitors now come by car or train (granted, they seem to prefer by foot to by bicycle).

To be honest, I was not especially confident that I would make it. Per Google, Einsiedeln is about 40 kilometres from Zurich, so that alone was a bit daunting, especially since I knew it would involve some climbing. I assumed the ebike would make this all easier, but I had never ridden one before, so was not quite sure. Mostly though the route appeared far from clear. While I could use two of Switzerland's amazing cycle routes (check it out! https://www.myswitzerland.com/en/experiences/summer-autumn/bicycle-mountain-bike/bicycle-tours/national-routes/), Google Maps does not seem to know these, so I would be mostly relying on the signage, and I was not sure how well marked the routes would be. Nonetheless, I set out at noon; I figured if nothing else I would have a nice ride on a nice day and see some of the Zurich outskirts.

Indeed, for my first five kilometres or so getting out of Zurich and its suburbs I made numerous wrong turns. Then, I really made a wrong turn into a large forested park. It was gorgeous, and I knew my direction was correct even if the path was not, so I carried on. Sure enough, eventually I rejoined the paved cycle route 32. I think at this point I must have been 12 kilometres or so from my hotel, and from now to a place called Samstagern the route was fairly well marked and absolutely amazing. I was on a very narrow rural road, which must have as many cyclists riding it nowadays as it does cars!

I was passing through farmers' fields, many with bell-ringing dairy cows grazing; little stands of wood; and small villages.

It was pretty idyllic cycling! At Samstagern I had to leave the cycling route and ride four kilometres or so along the road to Schindellegi. There was much more traffic on here, but it was alright. At Schindellegi I joined a freeway with bike lanes--who knew there was such a thing!?--for four more kilometres. I was now in what I believe is called the "little Alps," with what I would call the "real Alps" visible in the distance. I was glad to have the ebike assisting me as I ascended to Einsiedeln! I left the freeway and joined another official cycling route, this time the 9, and was in Einsiedeln in no time.

I reached the abbey at 14:00, feeling well-accomplished!

I visited the church, which is beautiful, and houses a black Madonna, which is quite interesting. I was not allowed to take photos inside though. I was able to photograph this exquisite gold statue outside though.

I walked through the abbey itself, but this was not especially interesting (although I was surprised how big it was!).

One reason I was interested in visiting Einsiedeln is that it is a stop on the Camino Santiago, and my wife and I are planning to walk the Camino Portuguese in a few weeks.

With my tour done, I found a shady spot to enjoy the picnic I had brought from Zurich, along with a local beer.

My bike's battery had drained more than I expected (well, really I was not sure what to expect, so I should say "more than I had hoped it would"), so I was a bit anxious to get going back. Granted, much of the way was now down hill, but I did not relish trying to chug this beast of a bike up hill without the assist! So, I left at 15:00 and used the battery much more sparingly on the way back. Thankfully, I now knew the way, so the ride back was very relaxed (although I still managed to make a wrong turn!). I arrived back at my hotel around 16:30, having ridden 79 kilometres, and with one bar left on the battery. I was very happy I had done the excursion; as interesting as Einsiedeln itself was, I think it was actually the journey there that was the best part of the afternoon!

Adventures in Europe: Zurich, Switzerland

It took me two buses and a train in Edmonton, three planes (YEG-YYC-CDG-ZRH), and two trains in Zurich, but late yesterday afternoon I reached my hotel in Switzerland. Although I was desperate to shower and hit the bed, I just freshened up a little and headed out for a walk.

I worked my way from my hotel over to the lake, and around to the opera house. 

I found a gorgeous spot to enjoy the sunset, a beer, and a kalbsbrawt.

This morning, after indulging at my hotel's breakfast buffet, I "rented" a free bike from Zuri Rollt near the train station (literally just a 20 CHF deposit and a small form to fill out and you can have the bike until 21:30!).  

I rode south along the east side of the lake (I am staying on the west side) to the Zurich suburb of Kusnacht where I was able to see Carl Jung's house (but only from the outside down a long driveway; it is now a museum, but open rarely). 

Anyway, I got in thirty-five kilometres of biking all told, and it was a gorgeous morning for it. Zurich has excellent cycling infrastructure which makes it a real pleasure to be out on a bike!  In the afternoon, I made use of the bike to explore more of Zurich, and especially the old town.  Honestly I was pretty lazy about touring in the sense that I did little stopping to actually appreciate anything specific, so I have almost no information to share, just some photos!

I went to a restaurant called Zeughausekeller, apparently housed in an old armoury, for an early dinner.  They claim to have a crossbow on the wall from William Tell.

I ate what is apparently a Zurich signature dish, Zürcher Geschnetzeltes, which is veal and mushrooms in a creamy white wine sauce. The server ladled it onto my plate, and then put the serving dish above a candle for me to reload the plate as needed (proved to be a LOT of food!). It is serve with rosti, basically a pan-friend cake of shredded potatoes. 

I saw this sign as I left the restaurant, which does have weapons all over the place; I assume this is a joke, but I am not confident.