Monday, 20 November 2017

Adventures in South America: Three Country Bicycle Adventure

I came to Puerto Iguazu to see the famous Iguazu Falls, of course, but I also could not pass up the opportunity to visit three countries in one day, and that was my plan this morning when I picked up my rental bicycle just after 8:00.


It was far from a wonderful bicycle, but it was adequate.  I began by rolling down to the Iguazu River port where the ferry I had checked out yesterday leaves from.  I opted to choose "peaton," and not bother mentioning my bicycle.


I had to wait a little bit before the ferry arrived and loaded up, but the whole experience was pretty cool.


I sure would like to know the story behind this ship!


We headed out into the Iguazu River and towards the Parana.


Brazil was to our right, the "marco" I had seen from Argentina yesterday.


And Paraguay straight ahead, with the red, white, and blue "hito."


Everyone leaving Argentina got their passports/documents stamped by an immigration official, but in Paraguay a lot of people did not--I am not sure why.  I had decided to get a Paraguay visa before coming ($150 USD!), but I think I could have gotten away without one.  Playing it safe, I stopped to get my passport stamped.


Then I cycled out of the river valley and into a city called Presidente Franco.  


I mostly cycled, but also walked, north through the city.  I found this barber shop hilarious, using Justin Bieber to advertise!


I also saw lots of evidence of something this area is famous for, electronics!  I think for the most part Brazilians come here to buy knock-off or otherwise-sketchily-sourced electronics, but this shop seems to have been more in the repair business.


I made my way into Ciudad del Este, past the very rugged looking Estadio Antonio Aranda, one of Paraguay's largest soccer stadiums.


I ended up in a cool park that used to be the airport.


After taking some time to enjoy the park, I cycled around what seemed to be the downtown area a little bit.  I was vaguely in search of a postcard, but really was not optimistic.  I gave up quickly, and cycled back south to the post office to mail a postcard I had brought from Argentina.

The post office was an interesting place, but all I photographed was this dream catcher, whose presence surprised me.  


I managed to speak to the man entirely in Spanish, but left without having my postcard mailed, because I could not pay for the stamps with a credit card or US dollars.  As I left the post office, I was quite surprised to see this large mosque right across the street.


I headed back into the downtown I had left, and found a cambio to change $5 USD into Paraguayan guaranies.  


I spent about half of it back at the post office on my stamp.  Then, postcard mailed, I began making my way to the Brazilian border.  I passed this unique church--note its relative accessibility compared to the mosque above.  


Here I could see across to Brazil, and had a decent view of the bridge connecting the two countries.


Close to the border are these large shopping malls.


And also lots of lower-scale street vendors selling clothes, electronics, and all sorts of things.


I was obviously not here to shop, but I did spend the last of my Paraguayan money on a bag of plums from a street vendor.  Then I went to the border.


Again, I clearly could have cycled right across without a passport stamp, but I searched a little bit and found someone, apparently Hugo Nunez, who would stamp me out of the country.


The bridge has a separated sidewalk for pedestrians, so I walked my bike along there.  There were lots of other people with shopping bags doing this walk.


The bridge crosses the Parana River, with Brazil on the east side . . .


. . . and Paraguay on the west.


There is a point on the bridge where you actually cross the border; the Paraguayan side is red and Brazilian green, with a "P" and a "B" in case you do not understand the colour coding.


In Foz do Iguacu, most people continued walking past immigration, but I was keen to get my passport stamped, for a reason I will explain tomorrow.  This proved very easy and quick, as I was literally the only person in the office.  I was now using my Brazilian visa.  Along with the visa for Paraguay, I had spent over $400 CAD on the visas I was using today!  In the case of Brazil, though, I did not have a choice, because I will be flying out of Brazil tomorrow, so could not have gotten away without it.

Today my only goal in Foz was to a) mail a postcard and b) get back to Argentina.  This whole cycle trip was taking longer than I had planned, and I was having to apply sunscreen for the third time.  Also, I was now out of water.

I cycled south, past many billboards advertising Paraguay shopping such as this one.


I made my way downtown to the post office.


Foz's post office was a far cry from Ciudad del Este's!  For one thing, I had been the only one at Ciudad del Este, but here there were dozens of people.  So many, in fact, I had to take a number and wait an hour!  But generally the post offices seemed to reflect the economic disparity between Brazil and Paraguay in terms of age of the buildings, professionalism of the employees, technology being used--even the lighting.  And, thankfully, I had no issues using a credit card to buy my stamp here in Brazil.

From the post office I continued my way south, winding through a fairly poor neighbourhood where a sheep was grazing!


I took a bit of a shortcut that allowed me to bypass Brazilian immigration--I did not want to be stamped out in this case (again, I will explain tomorrow).  I had to hop this barrier, but then I was on the highway to Argentina.


This time the bridge crossed the Iguazu River, which was the river I had started on on the ferry this morning.


As between Paraguay and Brazil, the bridge used colours to indicate which side you were on, only this time a lot more paint was used!


Once in Argentina, I just cycled right through the border security.  No one paid much attention to me, but I was actually a little anxious about not stopping.  Now that I was back in Puerto Iguazu it was not too much further to the bike rental shop, where I dropped the bicycle.  

This bicycle trip was what I was most nervous about in planning this trip to South America, because it was logistically somewhat challenging what with having to find a rental bicycle, travel across two rivers by ferry, all the border crossing, different currencies, etc.  So, I was pretty proud of myself when it was all done.  I do not think I have ever crossed even one border before by bicycle, let alone visited three countries in one day!

Here is more or less the route I had cycled.  Certainly I did well over 30 kilometres, because the route I have mapped does not include the backtracking I did in Paraguay.  Also, the 6+ hours Google says it would take to walk this route is pretty close to what it actually took me on my bicycle, including the ferry and all the stops, backtracking, etc.

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