Friday, 17 November 2017

Adventures in South America: Colonia del Sacremento, Uruguay

Today I made a day trip to Colonia del Sacremento in Uruguay, just across the Rio de la Plata.  The trip is popular with locals and tourists alike from Buenos Aires--catamaran ferries make the trip in just over an hour.


There are several companies that do the crossing, but it was easy for me to choose Buquebus, because their terminal is just a few minutes away from the Hotel Melia.


The immigration process here was pretty nifty, because they have an Argentinian officer sitting beside a Uruguayan, so they literally pass the passport down the line and once you get it back it has your Argentina exit stamp and your Uruguay entry stamp.

We pulled away from Buenos Aires quite late but it did not make too much difference to me.


We were less late arriving in Colonia than we had been leaving Buenos Aires, but I do not remember what time we arrived.


Once ashore I meandered towards the old town, which is a UNESCO world heritage site, and is probably only 500 metres from the port. 


Colonia's history is interesting, because it traded hands extremely frequently between its founding in 1680 and 1828, since when it has been part of Uruguay.  Here's the chart from Wikipedia:

16801680Flag of Portugal (1667).svg Portugal    conquered by José de Garro
16801681Flag of Cross of Burgundy.svg   SpainProvisional Treaty of Lisbon
16811705Flag of Portugal (1667).svg Portugalconquered in the War of Spanish Succession
17051713Bandera de Costas 1700-1771.png   SpainTreaty of Utrecht
17141762Flag of Portugal (1750).svg PortugalFirst Cevallos expedition
17621763Bandera de Costas 1700-1771.png   SpainTreaty of Paris (1763)
17631777Flag of Portugal (1750).svg PortugalSecond Cevallos expedition
17771811Flag of Spain (1785-1873 and 1875-1931).svg   SpainRevolt led by José Gervasio Artigas   
18111817Flag of Artigas.svg Liga FederalPortuguese conquest
18171822Flag of the United Kingdom of Portugal, Brazil, and the Algarves.svg PortugalBrazilian Declaration of Independence
18221828Flag of Empire of Brazil (1822-1870).svg BrazilCisplatine War
I had about five hours in Colonia, but had not made any plans because I was not too sure what to expect.  I probably could have made better use of my time and enjoyed everything a bit more if I had planned a bit more intentionally, but anyway I spent an hour or two just walking around.



You can climb the lighthouse, which appealed to me, and there are several museums, including an Indigenous museum which intrigued, but nothing was open yet, so I made my way out of the old town to mail a postcard.  There is a bit of a main street with lots of shopping, restaurants, and so on.  It seems besides the historical site, Colonia is a bit of a shopping destination as well.  Nothing struck me as especially unique or otherwise noteworthy, so I think the only appeal might be that you can save the VAT if you pay with a foreign credit card, but since a) my Spanish is lousy and b) I did not really care to figure it out, I am not quite sure.  


After mailing my postcard I picked a restaurant to have lunch in.  I "successfully" ordered entirely in Spanish, and ended up with a litre of beer.


I ate a steak, and was tremendously disappointed: it was probably the toughest meat I have ever eaten, and very fatty.  Granted, I was eating this in Uruguay and not Argentina, and granted this was not the nicest steakhouse, but after hearing so much about Argentina's beef, I had higher expectations.  

After lunch I still had a couple of hours or so before I had to return to port, so I decided to head to the beach.  I was intrigued by the artwork, advertising, and graffiti that lined the road.


Including advertising for communists:


On the way I took a short detour down this staircase. 


I felt like I was in the jungle.


But, I ended up at a dead end, so had to retreat and go back up the stairs.


Soon after I was at the beach.  I had not prepared at all for the beach, and I had expected it to not be very pleasant, because the Rio de la Plata is very, very muddy, but it turned out to be much nicer than my expectations.


I walked along it for a few minutes just in my shoes, then looped back to return to the ferry.


I passed this cool car on my walk back toward the port!

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